Fig

Fresh figs sell for $4-6/lb at specialty grocers and farmers markets, but the real reason to grow them is that you almost certainly can’t find good ones locally (USDA AMS Specialty Crop Market News, 2023). Fresh figs have a 2-3 day shelf life after harvest. The commercial supply chain cannot handle that, so what reaches most US retail markets is fruit picked underripe - firm enough to ship, but missing the jammy interior that makes a ripe fig worth eating. Grow your own and the access problem disappears entirely.

What you’re actually growing

Common fig (Ficus carica) is the species grown for edible fruit. Most cultivated varieties are parthenocarpic - they set fruit without pollination, which is what makes home production practical. The caprifig (wild form) requires pollination by the fig wasp (Blastophaga psenes), a species not established in North American gardens. Stick with parthenocarpic varieties: ‘Brown Turkey,’ ‘Chicago Hardy,’ ‘Celeste,’ ‘Black Mission,’ ‘Desert King.’

Figs produce two crops per year in warm climates. The breba crop develops on last year’s wood and ripens in early summer. The main crop develops on current-season wood and ripens in late summer through fall. In zones 8 and warmer, both crops are reliable. In zones 5-7, the breba crop is lost to winter die-back most years, but the main crop on regrowth still produces.

‘Chicago Hardy’ is the most cold-tolerant widely available variety, surviving to zone 5 with root and base protection. The top growth dies in a cold zone 5-6 winter; the plant regrows from the root crown and produces a main crop from new wood.

The ROI case

A containerized fig tree or bare-root starts at $9.99-$25 depending on source and size. In zones 8+, a mature tree (5+ years) produces 20-40 lb per year from two crops (UC Davis ANR, Fig Production in California, Publication 7296). At $4.50/lb, that’s $90-180 per year from a single tree.

In cold zones grown for the main crop only, production is lower - 5-12 lb per season on a plant that is essentially re-establishing from the base each year. At 8 lb average and $4.50/lb, that’s $36 in fruit value per season. Not spectacular on paper, but remember: you cannot buy fresh ripe figs locally. The value is access, not just dollar savings.

Container culture in zones 5-6: keep the tree in a large pot (25-30 gallon minimum for mature production), bring it into an unheated garage or basement in November, water once a month during dormancy, and move it back outside after last frost. A container tree held this way will produce 3-8 lb per season on the main crop. The labor cost is real - moving a 30-gallon container twice a year.

Growing requirements

Figs need heat - 8+ hours of direct sun per day for fruit production. They will grow in part shade but fruit poorly. In northern zones, a south-facing wall that traps reflected heat significantly extends what you can grow.

Soil pH 6.0-7.0, but figs tolerate alkaline conditions (up to 8.0) better than most fruits. They grow in poor soil but perform better with reasonable drainage and a moderate organic matter level. Avoid high nitrogen - figs that are over-fed with nitrogen produce large, leafy trees with small, poorly flavored fruit.

Water 1-1.5 inches per week during the swelling phase (mid-summer through harvest). Irregular moisture during fruit development causes splitting and souring. A drip emitter set on a timer produces more consistent results than hand watering.

Figs grown in containers dry out faster than in-ground trees and may need watering twice weekly during hot weather. Self-watering containers or sub-irrigation systems reduce monitoring frequency.

What goes wrong

Fig rust (Physopella fici) appears as orange-yellow pustules on the undersides of leaves, leading to premature leaf drop. It’s a fungal disease most prevalent in humid conditions. Copper fungicide applied preventively in midsummer slows spread. Cleanup of fallen leaves is important since the pathogen overwinters in leaf debris.

Dried fruit beetle (Carpophilus hemipterus) enters fruit through the eye (the small opening at the base of the fruit) and causes fermentation and souring. The beetle is attracted to overripe fruit. Pick fruit promptly at peak ripeness. A screen of mesh or cotton over the eye of fruit on the tree reduces entry - this is practical only for small trees.

Fig mosaic virus causes mottled yellow patterns on leaves and is transmitted by the fig mite (Aceria ficus). There is no cure. Remove and destroy infected plants. Purchase starts from reputable disease-free nursery sources.

Root knot nematodes (Meloidogyne spp.) are a serious problem in sandy southern soils, stunting plants and reducing yield significantly. Raised beds with pathogen-free media largely avoid this issue.

Cold damage in zones 5-6: hard freezes below 10°F kill wood but usually not established root systems on hardy varieties. Wrap trunks in burlap after leaf drop and mound soil over the base to protect the crown. ‘Chicago Hardy’ survives this treatment consistently.

Harvest and storage

Figs ripen on the tree and do not continue to ripen after picking - unlike most fruit. Harvest when the neck softens, the skin color deepens to the varietal color (dark brown to purple-black on most common varieties, yellow-green on ‘Desert King’), and the fruit hangs slightly downward from its own weight. At this stage the interior is jammy and fully sweet.

A ripe fig lasts 2-3 days at room temperature, 5-7 days refrigerated. For longer storage, halve and dry at 135°F in a dehydrator for 18-24 hours, or spread on trays in a 150°F oven with the door cracked. Dried figs keep 6-12 months in an airtight container.

Fresh figs freeze well when halved and flash-frozen on a sheet pan. Thawed fruit has a soft texture suitable for baking and jam production.

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Related crops: Arugula, Strawberry

Related reading: First Three Years ROI - accounting for a tree’s ramp-up period before it produces at full capacity