Transplant
A seedling started indoors or in a nursery and moved to its permanent growing location. Also the act of moving a plant from one location to another.
A transplant is a plant started somewhere other than where it will finish growing - typically started indoors weeks before the last frost, then moved outside when conditions allow. The term covers both the seedling itself (“set out your transplants after frost”) and the act of moving it (“transplant when nights stay above 50°F”).
Why Transplant
The main reason is the calendar. Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants need 8-12 weeks of warm growing time before they’re ready for outdoor conditions. Starting them indoors in late winter while outdoor soil is still frozen gives them that runway. By last frost, you’re setting out a plant 6-8 inches tall with an established root system, not germinating a seed.
The secondary reason is success rate. Seedlings started in controlled conditions - consistent warmth, good moisture, no competition from weeds - have better germination and early establishment rates than direct-sown seeds in outdoor beds.
What Transplants Well and What Doesn’t
Crops in the nightshade family (tomatoes, peppers, eggplant) and brassicas (broccoli, cabbage, kale, cauliflower) transplant very well. Cucurbits (cucumbers, squash, melons) can be transplanted if handled carefully and kept in individual cells rather than trays, because root disturbance slows them significantly.
Carrots, parsnips, radishes, peas, beans, and direct-sown herbs like dill and cilantro should not be transplanted. These crops either form taproots that are damaged in transplanting or bolt from root stress.
Transplant Shock
Moving a plant disrupts the root-soil interface and exposes roots to air. Even careful transplanting causes some setback. Symptoms: temporary wilting, yellowing of lower leaves, slow growth for several days. The plant is redirecting energy from top growth to root regrowth.
Minimize transplant shock by:
- Transplanting in the evening or on an overcast day to reduce heat stress
- Watering well before and after transplanting
- Keeping roots intact (don’t shake soil off unnecessarily)
- Hardening off before transplanting outdoor-bound starts
Hardening Off
Seedlings started indoors under grow lights or in a greenhouse have not experienced wind, direct sun, or outdoor temperature swings. Moving them directly outdoors stresses the foliage and can cause sun scald on leaves adapted to lower light. Hardening off is the process of gradually exposing indoor starts to outdoor conditions over 7-14 days before permanent transplanting. See the entry on Hardening Off for the full process.
Transplant Depth
Most transplants go in at the same depth they were growing. Tomatoes are the notable exception: tomatoes root along buried stem, so planting deeply (burying the stem up to the lowest set of leaves) develops a stronger, more extensive root system and produces more drought-tolerant plants. Peppers and eggplants should not be planted deeply in the same way.
Buying vs. Growing Transplants
Nursery transplants cost $1.50-4.00 each. A seed packet for the same crop costs $2-4 and may contain 25-50+ seeds. The math strongly favors growing your own transplants for crops you need in quantity. Buying makes sense for small plantings (1-4 plants) or when you lack indoor growing space.